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Sunday, June 15, 2014

Recipe: The Angry Goat - "The Billy Goats Gruff, brimming with stuff"

You'd be more than a little grumpy too if someone stuffed you 
full of this much paprika infused chocolate truffle ganache, 
sweet goat cheese cream and spicy apple chutney. 

But it's delicious anger... with a vanilla almond glaze...

Recipe: The Angry Goat 
"The Billy Goats Gruff, brimming with stuff"
Baked 06.13.14

Angry Goat plated side shot

Goat Cheese / Dark Chocolate / Apple / Almond / Sea Salt

Requested by

Seth K.


Five inspiration ingredients? Maybe there should be a limit... nah, keep 'em coming!

"So, what is "The Angry Goat"?"

Well, it's not quite a bread and it's not quite a cake. Call it a Fig Newton-esque identity crisis ("It's not a cookie, it's fruit and cake!").

But since the French have a specific name for everything edible, rest assured they know exactly what to call it - Brioche!

Brioche: a yeast dough that is shown additional love in the form of butter and sugar. This soft and subtly sweet dough is a sturdy yet tender foundation for the litany of inspiration ingredients that will follow.

This particular Brioche is rolled into long, thin sheets (a rather unconventional preparation) onto which the chocolate truffle ganache, goat cheese cream and apple chutney are piped in three distinct regions. The dough is then rolled into a loaf (as you would a burrito), and each loaf is scored (to help the rising process) and washed with egg yolk (to produce an amazing, deep blonde finish).

When baked, the chocolate truffle ganache takes on a brownie-like consistency. The goat cheese cream transforms into a rich custard. And the apple chutney just can't help but ooze throughout the entire mix, tying all the flavors together.

Overfill these loaves and they will explode -- spectacularly.

Once cooled, each loaf is coated with a vanilla glaze and toasted almonds. A dusting of sea salt and paprika serves as the savory finale for the whole affair.

Amazing either hot or cold, at nearly three-quarters of a pound each, they're perfect to slice and share - or not. It's your call.

- The Components -
& Recipes

There are five recipes for the Angry Goat. One batch yields 10 large loaves (approximately 9"). 

The following is the recommended order for preparation:
  1. Brioche - 25 minutes active prep time; 4 hours to overnight for refrigerated rising
  2. Spicy Apple Chutney - 20 minutes active prep and cooking time; up to 2 hours simmering
  3. Paprika Infused Chocolate Truffle Ganache - 15 minutes active prep time 
  4. Sweet Goat Cheese Cream -10 minutes active prep time
  5. Vanilla Almond Glaze - 5 minutes active prep time, immediately before using
For some general recipe reminders, check out this post.

"A bread by any other name wouldn't taste as sweet"

Ah, brioche. Take bread dough and knead it with butter until it can take no more. The result - soft, tender, and wouldn't you have guess it, buttery bread.

Once all of the butter is incorporated into this dough, it may seem too liquid and sticky. Don't worry. After it rests in the refrigerator, it will be much easier to handle.

Yields: Approximately 1.25kg - enough for 1 batch (10 count) of "Angry Goat"

Brioche mise en placeIngredients
  • All Purpose Flour: 660g (5.5 Cups)
  • Active Dry Yeast: 10g (approximately 1 Tbsp / 1.5 packets)
  • Granulated Sugar - 100g (0.5 Cup)
  • Large Eggs - 6 Count
  • Butter - 225g (1 Cup / 2 Sticks) 
  • Kosher Salt: 12g (2 Tsp)
  • Whole Milk: 120g (0.5 Cup)

1. Proof the Yeast: Warm the milk in a microwave for 15 seconds. It should feel barely warm to touch. Add the yeast to the warm milk and stir. Allow the mixture to sit for 5 minutes while you prepare the other ingredients. If the yeast is good, bubbles will form on the top of the milk.

Chef's note: Yeast can die (*sniff), something you need to know before mixing it with the rest of your ingredients. No one wants to do all of that mixing and kneading just to discover, two hours later, that the would-be pillowy dough is no more than a unleavened death cake.

The warm milk provides a cozy environment and a food source for the yeast. The yeast will show its appreciation by burping off carbon dioxide and alcohol, giving your dough lift and flavor. The yeast will continue to give off gas until the sugar source is depleted or you kill it with heat from baking (the sad life of yeast).

2. Mix the dry ingredients (flour, salt and sugar) in a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs with a fork. Add the yeast and milk mixture to the bowl with the eggs and stir briefly to combine. Pour the wet ingredients over the dry ingredients in the stand mixer. Engage the dough hook on low speed for 5 minutes, scraping the sides and bottom of the bowl as needed. The dough should appear somewhat stiff and shaggy.

Brioche dough before full kneading

3. Divide the butter into 12 pieces (1 Tbls each - but don't go crazy being exact). While the mixer continues to knead the dough, add the butter one tablespoon at a time, waiting for each piece to be fully incorporated before adding more butter. You may need to stop the mixer and scrape down the sides and bottom of the bowl every 3-4 tablespoons. Once all of the butter has been kneaded into the dough, the dough will appear very liquid. Don't worry - this is what you want. Avoid the temptation to add flour!  Avoid it!!

4. Time for a "catharsis knead" - AKA, get out all of your frustration and knead the dough for 10 minutes (or let your mixer do the dirty work on medium speed for 10 minutes).

5. Place the kneaded-into-submission dough into a large, lightly greased bowl for rising. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and place it in the refrigerator for at least four hours, but ideally overnight.

Kneaded brioche dough

Spicy Apple Chutney:
"Apple sauce for adults... and precocious children"

The spices listed in this recipe are just guidelines. I get it - not everyone is going to love the idea of garlic with their apples (don't knock it 'til you try it). Besides, it will be more fun to mix and match according to your personal taste - just try to keep it balanced between sweet, salty and acidic. 

Yields: Approximately 600g - enough for one batch (10 count) of "Angry Goat". Final yield will vary based on total simmering time and liquid reduction.

  • Apples - 3 Count or approximately 600g
  • Canola Oil - 1 Tbls
  • Apple Cider Vinegar - 120g (0.5 Cup)
  • Granulated Sugar - 145g (0.75 Cup)
  • Fresh Ginger - 15g
  • Garlic - 1 Large Clove, minced
  • Orange Zest - 2 Tsp
  • Orange Juice - 60g (0.25 Cup - yield from one small orange)
  • Cinnamon - 2 Tsp
  • Nutmeg - 0.5 Tsp
  • Cumin - 0.5 Tsp
  • Cardamom - 0.5 Tsp
  • Kosher Salt - 1 Tsp

1. Core and small chop the apples (no need to peel). Mince the ginger and garlic. Zest and squeeze the orange.

2. Heat the oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. Add the apples and stir for 1-2 minutes.

3. Add all of the other ingredients (cider vinegar, granulated sugar, minced ginger, minced garlic, orange zest, orange juice, cinnamon, nutmeg, cumin, cardamom and salt). Bring the mixture to a boil, stirring occasionally.

Spicy Apple Chutney ingredients

4. As soon as the mixture is boiling, reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, for at least one hour. The ingredients will break down into a thick, apple sauce consistency. The longer you simmer, the thicker the consistency and the more intense the flavor. If the chutney is not reducing sufficiently, continue to simmer uncovered for up to and additional hour.

5. Allow the chutney to cool. If using the chutney as a filling for the Angry Goat, puree it using an immersion blender and pass it through a mesh sieve. Store the chutney puree in a plastic container in the refrigerator until needed.

Pot of Spicy Apple Chutney

Paprika Infused Chocolate Truffle Ganache:
"Is there anything people won't put in chocolate these days?!"

You can easily omit the paprika in this recipe and use the thick chocolate ganache in myriad ways. Go ahead - I won't judge you for your lack of adventurous spirit.

For some previous discussion of ganache, check out this post.

Yields: 750g - enough for 1 batch (10 count) of "Angry Goat"... and likely some extra 

Heavy Cream - 240ml (1 Cup)
Dark Chocolate, at least 72% cacao - 500g (approximately 18 oz)
Paprika - 2 Tsp


1. In a heavy sauce pan, heat the cream over low to medium heat until it just reaches a boil. Stir frequently to prevent any scorching.

Chopped chocolate

2. While the cream comes to a boil, finely chop the chocolate and place it in a large mixing bowl. Once the cream is boiling, pour it over the chopped chocolate and let it sit for 1 minute.

Warm cream over chopped chocolate

3. With a whisk, stir the cream into the chocolate for 2-3 minutes, until fully incorporated and smooth. As this is a 2:1 chocolate to cream ratio ganache, it will still be thick when fully combined. Set aside and, once cooled, cover with plastic wrap. 

Chef's Note: If you store the chocolate in the refrigerator, it will become rock hard.

Mixing chocolate ganache

Sweet Goat Cheese Cream:

"The goat says, 'yum'"

Combining the goat cheese with egg and sugar creates a custard-like batter that cooks up perfectly inside of the brioche when baked.

Yields: Approximately 550g - enough for one batch (10 count) of "Angry Goat"

  • Goat Cheese: 12oz
  • Large Eggs: 2 Count
  • Confectioner's Sugar: 60g (0.5 Cup)
  • Salt: 2 Tsp

1. Gently stir the goat cheese, egg, confectioners sugar and salt in a stand mixer bowl using a wooden spoon until combined.

Goat cheese cream filling ingredients

2. Fit the stand mixer with a whisk attachment and beat on medium speed for 2 minutes until smooth.

3. Transfer the goat cheese mixture to a covered container and store in the refrigerator until needed.

Vanilla Almond Glaze:
"Pour some sugar on me"

Don't you hate recipes that claim, "It's so simple, even a child make it."?  Me too... but this recipe is so simple, even a child can make it.

Chef's Note: Make the glaze immediately before using. It dries quickly.

Yields: Approximately 1.5 Cups - enough for 1 batch (10 count) of "Angry Goat"

  • Confectioner's Sugar: 240g (2 Cups) 
  • Water, Milk or Melted Butter: 2 - 4 Tbls
  • Vanilla Extract: 1/4 Tsp 
  • Almond Extract: 1/4 Tsp 
  • Dash of salt

* Chef's Note: The amount of liquid determines the thickness of the glaze. For a thicker glaze that will be semi-opaque when it dries, use 1 Tbls liquid for every cup of confectioner's sugar. For a thin, translucent glaze, increase the amount of liquid up to as much as 2 Tbls for every cup of confectioner's sugar.

The type of liquid used in the glaze will also determine the consistency. Use water or milk for a finish that will be flaky when it dries. Use butter for a consistency that more closely resembles an icing.


1. Mix all ingredients together until smooth. Boom!

- Putting it Together

This process may seem a little daunting at first, but just keep thinking "Burrito!"  The rolling technique is exactly the same.

Taking the time to properly roll your dough into well-shaped rectangle before filling will make the process a lot easier. After your first few rolling attempts, if you discover that the rolled loaves are not sealed tightly, consider using less filling per loaf. 

Yields: 10 large "Angry Goat"

  • Brioche Dough - 1 recipe
  • Spicy Apple Chutney - 1 recipe
  • Paprika Infused Chocolate Ganache - 1 recipe
  • Sweet Goat Cheese Cream - 1 recipe
  • Vanilla Almond Glaze - 1 recipe
  • Shaved Almonds - 1 cup
  • Sea Salt - to taste
  • Paprika - to taste
  • Large Eggs - 2 Count
  • Cold Water - 2 Tbls

1. Remove the brioche dough from the refrigerator, uncover, and let sit at room temperature for a couple of minutes. Divide the dough into 10 equal sized balls of 125g and place on a baking sheet.

2. Roll out the dough: With floured hands, take a ball of dough and pat gently into a rectangular shape. Place the dough on a lightly floured surface and roll it out to 8" wide and about 18" long at 1/8th of a inch thickness. With each pass of the rolling pin, start from the middle of the dough and push outwards toward the edges. At first, the dough will be relatively elastic and will try to pull back.

Rolled brioche dough

3. Fill the dough: With the short side of the dough facing you, spoon or pipe a single line of ~50g of the chocolate ganache, starting 1/2" in from the edge and stopping 1/2" before the opposite edge (the buffers at the edges will be folded in when you roll to prevent the filling from leaking). 

Chef's note: Overfilling the dough or wrapping the dough too tightly will cause the filling to burst through the loaves while baking. If unsure of how much filling to use, err on the side of using less.

Starting to roll an Angry Goat loaf

4. Roll up the loaf: Begin by rolling the loaf up and over the ganache, and continue to roll for approximately 4". As you roll, tuck in the 1/2" buffer at the sides as if you were rolling a burrito. The rolling should be tight enough to remove any air, but not so tight as to limit future rising.

5. Continue to fill and roll the loaf. As with the chocolate ganache, spoon or pipe a single line of ~50g of the goat cheese cream, starting 1/2" in from the edge and stopping 1/2" before the opposite edge. The line of cream should be placed right up against the already rolled portion of the loaf.

6. Roll the loaf up and over the cream for approximately 6", being careful to capture it as a 'pocket' of filling. Do not squeeze the filling out in front of the loaf as you roll.

7. Repeat the filling process with the apple chutney, spooning or piping a single line of ~50g of filling. Roll the loaf up and over the chutney and all the way to the end of the dough.

Rolling an Angry Goat loaf

8. Carefully pinch the ends of the rolled dough to create a smooth, sealed loaf. Place the dough, seam side down, on a parchment or silpat lined baking sheet.

9. Using a very sharp chef's knife, carefully score the dough at a 45 degree angle. Make sure to use a very shallow cut that does not break into any of the layers of filling. 

Unbaked Angry Goat loaf

10. Repeat the process for the remaining 9 balls of dough. Do not crowd the baking sheet. The loaves will expand considerably when baking. A half sized sheet pan can hold 4 loaves.

11. Beat together the egg and cold water. Using a pastry brush, thoroughly coat each loaf with the egg wash. Save the egg wash in the refrigerator as it will be used again.

13. Cover the loaves very loosely with plastic wrap and let rise for 1 - 1.5 hours.

Chef's note: Covering the loaves with plastic wrap during the rising process prevents the dough from drying out. The egg wash also helps keep things moist. But be careful when removing the plastic wrap before baking. It may stick to the dough.

14. While the dough rises, preheat the oven to 350 degrees fahrenheit.

15. Gently remove the plastic wrap from the covered loaves and brush the loaves once more with the egg wash.

16. Bake for 25 minutes, rotating the baking sheet 180 degrees halfway through the baking time. Around 15 minutes, the loaves should start to take on an amber color and begin to smell amazing. The finished loaves should have a shiny, amber exterior.

17. Allow the loaves to cool on the baking sheets for 5 minutes and then transfer to a cooling rack. If any of the loaves split while baking, carefully wipe away the burst filling. 

18. When the loaves are fully cool (approximately 1 hour), prepare the glaze and spoon it lightly over each loaf. While the glaze is still wet, dust the loaves with the almonds, sea salt and paprika according to taste.

The loaves keep well for several days in the refrigerator and can be served cold or warmed in a 350 over for approximately 5 minutes. 

- The Finished Product -

Angry Goat plated overhead shot

Kitchen while making the "Angry Goat"

Cooling trays of Angry Goat

Close-up of Angry Goat

Cross-section of unglazed Angry Goat

Rows of finished Angry Goats

Closeup on rows of finished Angry Goats

Close up of finished Angry Goat with Logo

Questions? Comments? Send me an email or leave a comment.
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