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Saturday, March 14, 2015

Culinary School - Session 85: Bonbons (cont.)

Culinary School: Session 85 (03.13.15)

Bonbons (cont.)

Oops, I did it again...

Back before Culinary School, when I created a recipe for Maple Bacon Apple Danish, I insisted that I was not jumping on the "Bacon Bandwagon". I like the stuff, but I do not see a need for bacon soap... or bacon bowls... or entire lines of bacon apparel. And yet, here I am, on a day where we are given creative control to design our own Bonbon fillings, whipping up a new recipe for Maple Bacon Ganache (which I will be posting sometime soon).

Writing a recipe for a Bonbon Ganache was a way to ensure that everyone in the Pastry Arts class could create a full-flavored, well-balanced and stable Ganache from scratch. In the end, there were no disasters... no one attempted to make some aberration like a mustard and cumin Ganache... there were just trays upon trays of shining Bonbons.

Maple Bacon Ganache Bonbons

- Ingredients Running Tally -

Ingredients used to date (03.13.15):
  • Flour: 24,535g
  • Eggs: 16,000g (320x)
  • Sugar: 25,090g
  • Butter: 16,020g
  • Milk/Cream: 16,845g
  • Chocolate: 6,535g (since 01.12.15)

    - The Recipes and Techniques -


    Cocoa Butter Colors

    Cocoa Butter Colors are fat-soluble dyes that can be used to color White Chocolate (or any fat-based product) or used directly as edible paints on Chocolate products, such as Bonbons.

    Focus Technique:
    - Coloring Bonbons: When molding Bonbons, it is possible to first apply Cocoa Butter Colors to the molds as a way to decorate the outer shell. The Cocoa Butter Colors are applied directly to the clean, dry molds prior to pouring the initial layer of Chocolate. The Colors can be applied to the mold directly with a paint brush, air-brush or even a cornet. For more abstract designs, the Colors can simply be splattered into the molds a la Jackson Pollock! For the best results, the Chocolate should be poured into the molds shortly after the Cocoa Butter Colors are applied. This ensures that the Colors and Chocolate adhere together.
    - Controlling the Holding Temperature: Cocoa Butter Colors are temperature sensitive and should be handled similarly to tempered Chocolate. For the best results, the Colors should be heated to between 86 - 90 degrees Fahrenheit (i.e. the "Holding Range") before they are used. 

    Bottles of Cocoa Butter Colors

    Preparing Bonbon Molds with Streaks of Red Cocoa Butter Color


    Maple Bacon Ganache

    A caramelized Maple Ganache prepared with smoked Bacon infused cream.

    Focus Technique:
    - Preparing a Smoked Bacon Infused Cream: In order to capture the flavor of bacon in a smooth Ganache, an infusion is prepared. The Bacon is first rendered over moderate heat to melt the flavorful fats. Cream is then added and brought to a boil. Boiling the cream with the rendered Bacon fat emulsifies the ingredients. The heat is then reduced to a low simmer, and the ingredients steep to fully extract the flavor. In the end, the cream is strained of all solids. 
    - Making a Caramel with Maple Syrup: Making a Ganache with pure maple syrup would result in an overly-liquid product. This problem is solved by "caramelizing" the Maple Syrup. The Maple Syrup is boiled until it reaches 250 degrees Fahrenheit. Through this process, much of the water content is removed. In addition, by reducing the Maple Syrup, the flavor intensifies.
    - Using Honey as an Emulsifier: Honey is a natural emulsifier, which means that when it is vigorously whisked into mixtures of oil and water-based ingredients, it will help keep those ingredients from separating. In this Ganache recipe, the high fat content from the rendered Bacon introduced an interesting challenge in creating a well-emulsified Ganache. By spinning the Ganache in a food processor with some Honey, the mixture combined into a smooth and highly stable emulsification. The Honey also added a complementary note of flavor to the Maple and Bacon.

    Working on the Recipe for Maple Bacon Ganache

    Bowl of Maple Bacon Ganache

    Lardons of Bacon for the Ganache Cream Infusion


    High Ratio Chocolate Cake

    A Chocolate Cake in which the amount of sugar, by weight, exceeds the amount of flour. High Ratio Cakes are typically more moist than standard Sponge Cakes given the significant amount of sugar, which is hydroscopic.

    This cake was prepared in preparation for the next session in which Two-Tiered Chocolate Cakes will be assembled and decorated with various Chocolate techniques.

    High-Ratio Chocolate Cake

    Next - Session 86: Cherry Cordials and Two-Tiered Chocolate Cake

    Previous - Sessions 84: Bonbons 

    Take a look at the full syllabus

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